Saturday, January 19, 2008

 

We hopped continents again, leaving Asia for Europe as we sailed across the Mediterranean toward the Island of Rhodes for an all-too-brief excursion to Greece. Our tiny ferry runs only twice a week in winter, and the voyage took two hours, giving some of a chance to catch up on some sleep, and passing quickly through a rain shower. On Rhodes, we reached a summit (the "acropolis") where we could simultaneously gaze upon the Aegean and Mediterranean seas, while also taking in an ancient hippodrome and the sites of several temples to the ancient Greek gods.

Crossing a medieval moat, complete with wooden drawbridge, we walked into a castle that could have been the model for PlayMobil toys. With its four sequential gates, the 15th century fort has never been conquered, though an earthquake once destroyed it. Inside, a Christian hospital featured a ward with private cubicles that once served patients rich enough - and required - to bequeath their entire fortunes in exchange for exceptional care. We walked a medieval street lined with stone buildings once established by language and cultural societies, now restored to their original appearance. In a museum, we saw wall carvings featuring hospital patients wearing arm slings, and a haunting sculpture of Aphrodite, goddess of love and beauty.

Our terrific Greek tour guide was disappointed we had to return to Marmaris in just a couple of hours (because of the ferry schedule). At one point, she subtly  demonstrated persistent Greek-Turkish political tensions when she referred to "Constantinople, which the Turks call Istanbul." Earlier in our travels in Turkey, we saw the evidence of repeated Greek-Turkish tensions in the territorial battles over Aegean islands and western lands now part of Turkey. In class, we discussed the continuing political challenge of the divided island of Cyprus, whose fate is partly responsible for Turkey's painstakingly slow accession to the European Union.

 
 
 

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