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| Vol. 17, No. 39 | Aug. 20, 1998 |
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| Vol. 17, No. 39 | Aug. 20, 1998 |
Francis Poole and his son, Adam
The words to that song and the surfing boom it chronicled are most likely just distant memories to most members of that generation. But, a few hardy souls have remained actively devoted to the sport, such as Francis Poole, library, who has been surfing for more than 30 years.
"I guess the actual interest began in high school, when we began making our own surfboards," Poole said. "This was before you could actually buy them."
Like many surfers, Poole's interest was fueled by the early surfing anthems of the Beach Boys and Jan and Dean and by the sounds of Dick Dale, affectionately known as "the king of the surf-guitar."
After getting started surfing in Florida, Poole eventually rode the waves in such varied locales as Puerto Rico, Cape Hatteras and Huntington Beach, Calif., the recognized "capital" of West Coast surfing.
Career moves that took him abroad, where access to surfing was very limited, temporarily halted Poole's access to the sport, but the bug hit him again when he returned to the U.S.
"I kept having recurring dreams about surfing, so I thought I'd better do something about it," Poole said. "I went out, bought a surfboard and got back into surfing."
In Delaware, Poole's favorite spot is the north jetty area near the mouth of the Indian River Inlet, an area designated for surfing. Poole said that the winter storms of 1996 improved the "break" a lot in this area. The summer of 1997 was one of the best for surfing in years.
"The break is the place where you actually do the surfing," Poole said. "This changes from year to year, depending on the effects of beach erosion."
Another thing that surfers like about the Delaware beaches is that, if it becomes a little too crowded around the jetty, good surfing can be found just a little further south at Fenwick Island State Park. Poole also has a few favorite spots along the Jersey shore.
The biggest waves that Poole has ever tackled were during a hurricane surf in Fernandina Beach, Fla., where the waves were cresting at about 10 feet.
"There was more wave to maneuver on, and it was just a little bit awesome," Poole remembered. "It wasn't scary, just more of a rush, due to the power of the water."
Waves, after all, are what surfing is all about. Poole said each wave has its own personality, and to really appreciate surfing you need to get in tune with the rhythm of the wave on which you are riding.
"It's hard to describe the feeling, because what you are riding on is moving," Poole said. "In a sense, the wave is alive, and you are never in total control of the situation.
"You want to be respectful of the ocean, but not afraid," Poole said. "Fear can lead to panic, and then you are helpless."
For those taking up the sport, Poole recommends watching other surfers. Serious novices can attend a surfing school, where newcomers camp out on the beach for two weeks while learning the sport.
"It takes a long time to learn the sport, but it is fun," Poole said. "You just have to put the time in the water."
Other items necessary to get started in surfing include a good wet suit and rubber gloves-to guard against hypothermia-and, of course, the proper surf board.
Surfing can be a family sport, and it's not unusual to see several generations of a family riding the waves. "I am teaching my son Adam to surf, and he loves it," Poole said.
Poole said when surfers get together, they tend to share memorable incidents they encountered while riding the waves.
Poole's special event happened early one morning while surfing off Jacksonville, Fla.
"A school of porpoises swam right toward me, and then went under me," Poole said. "Among the porpoises was a pilot whale, about 10- to 13-feet long. It swam within six feet of me. I could feel its wake."
While such experiences are what make surfing such an exciting sport, it is the feeling of being alone on the ocean that appeals to Poole.
"When you paddle out, you leave the land behind, and you are in another element," Poole said. "It clears you head and you forget about all your problems and tensions. It's just the greatest sport in the world."
-Jerome Rhodes
Photo by Jack Buxbaum
